Timeless Beauty: Jaeger-LeCoultre’s High Jewellery Masterpieces

Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces three exquisite High Jewellery timepieces that blend the exceptional art of gem setting with the iconic Calibre 101. Each watch stands as a unique and radiant expression of femininity, reaffirming the limitless creative possibilities arising from the fusion of this distinctive watch mechanism with high jewelry.

A fresh and innovative creation, the 101 Secrets watch boasts an astonishing assembly of nearly 27 carats of diamonds. As the most precious Calibre 101 timepiece ever crafted by Jaeger-LeCoultre, its rivière-style bracelet showcases a novel concealed mechanism, allowing the wearer to unveil the dial at her discretion.

The 101 Bangle, originally unveiled in 2020, has been reimagined into two exclusive masterpieces. One features pink gold with a red lacquer dial embellished with diamonds, while the other showcases white gold with a snow-white lacquer dial adorned with sapphires and diamonds.

Conceived and developed specifically for jewelry watches, the Calibre 101 made its debut in 1929 under the auspices of La Grande Maison. This revolutionary watchmaking feat, characterized by its minuscule size and slender baguette shape, bestowed newfound artistic freedom upon designers. Weighing a mere gram, this diminutive hand-wound caliber retains its distinction as the world’s smallest mechanical movement to this day. Furthermore, it stands as one of the world’s oldest movements to remain in continuous production by Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Defined by four rows of diamonds – two outer rows of claw-set diamonds flanking a double row of grain-set diamonds – the 101 Secrets creates a dazzling river of luminance and radiance, concealing the timepiece’s presence within.

The tradition of secret watches dates back to the 19th century when pocket watches, worn by both genders, featured hinged covers, often intricately embellished with enamel and gemstones, concealing the watch dial to protect it from scratches. As women adopted wristwatches in the early 20th century, the prevailing belief was that a lady need not have the time constantly on display. Today, secret watches serve as a creative realm where jewelry and watch design converge to craft pieces of extraordinary beauty and genuine utility.

The plural form of “Secrets” in the timepiece’s name alludes to two concealed marvels. The first secret lies in its dual identity as both a timekeeping instrument and a piece of jewelry: the dial remains concealed until the wearer chooses to reveal it. The second secret resides in a concealed micro-mechanical mechanism nestled amidst the diamond rows—a marvel so minuscule that it remains nearly imperceptible, known solely to the woman donning the watch. With a gentle press on the concealed ‘button,’ a segment of the bracelet unfurls like the pages of a book, revealing the time on a luminous mother-of-pearl dial. Upon release, the dial vanishes, and the bracelet resumes its role as an ever-flowing stream of diamonds.

For the two outer diamond rows, expert gem-setters employed the claw setting technique—an age-old method that elevates the stones above the gold surface, allowing light to refract through them from all angles, accentuating their brilliance. The larger diamonds are meticulously graded in size and positioned with perfect symmetry, showcasing the artisans’ exceptional skill. The grain-set inner diamond rows provide a visual anchor for the larger stones, emphasizing the Art Deco-inspired geometric design, especially noticeable when the watch is open. Adding even more luminance to the piece, the bracelet’s profile is adorned with diamonds.

The 101 Secrets, adorned with a grand total of 1,024 diamonds, amounting to 26.75 carats, represents an impressive 182 hours of meticulous gem-setting, all meticulously executed in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s own Metier Rares™ workshop.

In 2023, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s designers infused the 101 Bangle with a burst of color, presenting two exclusive, one-of-a-kind reinterpretations of this iconic piece that had made its debut in 2020. Inspired by the graceful contours and bold lines of Art Deco and 20th-Century Modernism, the design of the 101 Bangle is a testament to their creative vision.

The first reinterpretation adorns a pink gold bracelet, where a delicate red lacquer dial boldly contrasts with the white diamonds, harmonizing elegantly with the warm hues of the precious metal. To accentuate the three-dimensional allure of the design, the 996 diamonds, totaling 19.7 carats, graduate in size, and the skilled gem-setters employ both griffe and grain-setting techniques to enhance the interplay of light on these precious gemstones. Adding an extra layer of brilliance, the bracelet’s profile is adorned with yet more diamonds.

In a groundbreaking departure, the second reinterpretation features a white gold bracelet, marking the first time white gold has been incorporated into the 101 Bangle. The graceful curves of the design are accentuated by a row of brilliant-cut sapphires, varying in size, that envelop the wrist in a continuous embrace. The deep blue hues of the sapphires are intensified by another row of sapphires, set into the profile of the bracelet, and complemented by the cool tones of white diamonds, white gold, and a snow-white lacquer dial. With 347 sapphires, totaling 10.29 carats, and 645 diamonds, amounting to 10.99 carats, this reinterpretation of the 101 Bangle showcases a remarkable 21.28 carats of precious stones in total.

Steeped in the visionary spirit of its founder, La Grande Maison embarked on the journey of crafting timepieces for women during its formative years. From the outset, the Maison grasped the vast potential of watches that seamlessly merged the realms of aesthetics and technical prowess, transforming them into exquisite jewelry and fashion accessories. As the years passed and societal changes reshaped not only fashion and style but also the very concept of femininity, the Manufacture responded by conceiving watches tailored specifically for women, weaving together technical excellence, innovative design, and aesthetic allure in myriad ways.

In 1929, as horologists sought to demonstrate that precision and miniaturization could coexist harmoniously, the Maison introduced Calibre 101. This remarkable achievement in miniaturization, born half a century before the advent of computer-aided design and advanced production technologies, earned renown as the world’s tiniest mechanical movement. While the mechanism has undergone advancements in materials and machining techniques over the years, its dimensions and fundamental architecture have remained unaltered. The contemporary iteration of Calibre 101 comprises 98 components, an expansion from the original 78, measuring 14 mm x 4.8 mm, with a slender thickness of 3.4 mm (occupying a mere 0.2 cm3 in volume), and boasting a feather-light weight of just one gram.

Given the minuscule scale of the mechanism, every single component necessitates bespoke production and meticulous adjustment, essentially rendering each Calibre 101 a unique creation. A select few watchmakers within the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture have mastered the exacting skills required to craft and assemble movements at such microscopic proportions. Consequently, only a limited number of these exceptional timepieces can be crafted each year.

The unveiling of the three new timepieces continues the extraordinary narrative of Calibre 101, exemplifying Jaeger-LeCoultre’s unparalleled prowess in the realm of miniature watchmaking, alongside the exceptional artistry of the Maison’s gem-setters. With designers, watchmakers, and jewelers collaborating harmoniously under one roof at the Manufacture, they represent an exceptional fusion of technical brilliance, innovative design, and aesthetic splendor.

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

101 SECRETS

Material: Pink Gold 750/1000 (18 carats)

Case Dimensions: 29.07 x 12.22 mm

Wrist size: 160 mm

Thickness: 9.88 mm

Calibre: Manually-wound Calibre 101

Functions: Hours, minutes

Power Reserve: 33 hours

Dial: Mother of pearl

Carats: 1,024 diamonds ~26.75 carats

Reference: Q2872201

Production: Made to Order

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

101 BANGLE (Pink Gold)

Case: Pink Gold 750/1000 (18 carats)

Case Dimensions: 18.35 x 5.98 mm

Wrist size: 160 mm

Thickness: 5.97 mm

Calibre: Manually-wound Calibre 101

Functions: Hours, minutes

Power Reserve: 33 hours

Dial: Red lacquer

Carats: 996 diamonds ~19.7 carats

Reference: Q2892260

Production: Unique piece

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

101 BANGLE (White Gold)

Material: White gold (18 carats)

Case Dimensions: 18.35 x 5.98 mm

Wrist size: 160 mm

Thickness: 5.47 mm

Calibre: Manually-wound Calibre 101

Functions: Hours, minutes

Power Reserve: 33 hours

Dial: White lacquer

Carats: 347 Sapphires (10.29 cts), 645 diamonds (10.99 cts) ~21.28 carats

Reference: Q2893202

Production: Unique piece