The design of Patek Philippe’s Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” chronograph

Patek Philippe has launched its first self-winding ladies’ chronograph – it is the first chronograph in the sporty-chic, contemporary Aquanaut Luce collection. The Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” chronograph in rose gold was created especially for modern, active women. It features a rainbow consisting of baguette diamonds and multi-colored sapphires that are invisibly set.

Since it was launched in 2004, the Aquanaut Luce (as a ladies’ version of the Aquanaut that was introduced in 1997) has successfully wooed all the women who appreciate its unique style and elegance for any occasion. The fire of diamonds on its bezel gave it the name “Luce” (Italian for light) and today adorns three steel models with quartz movements as well as with dials and straps in black, matte white or khaki green as well as a rose-gold version with the self-winding caliber 26-330 S C and a dial/strap in matte white. 

In 2021, Patek Philippe endowed the Aquanaut Luce collection with a second time zone (Travel Time), its first additional function. The result is a very convenient and elegant travel watch with an innovative quartz movement that allows the setting of the respective local time with the crown. It stands out with a rose-gold case and a dial and strap in matte white (Aquanaut Luce Travel Time). 

Now, Patek Philippe is taking a step further and launching a second additional function in the Aquanaut Luce collection: a chronograph. In 2009, the manufacturer first presented its new proprietary manually wound chronograph movement CH 29-535 PS with classic architecture in a cushion-shaped ladies’ watch case. Today, this new movement ticks in the very feminine Calatrava ladies’ chronograph. In turn, the new Aquanaut Luce is the first Patek Philippe ladies’ wristwatch with a self-winding chronograph movement – an ideal companion for this sporty elegant and casual timepiece. 

The new Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” chronograph is equipped with the self-winding caliber CH 28-520, a vertical disc clutch, and a large 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock. Thanks to this modern clutch that operates with minimal wear and without affecting precision and power reserve, the sweep chronograph hand can also be used as a constantly running seconds hand. With the pusher at 4 o’clock, the flyback function makes it possible to start a new measurement at any time, even if the sweep chronograph hand is already measuring the duration of an event or if it is being used as a constantly running seconds hand. 

In addition to the wreath of brilliant-cut diamonds, the Aquanaut Luce has already been launched in several jewelry versions in which the inimitable case design is emphasized with a precious setting of gems, forming a uniquely radiant pairing. The Ref. 5062/450R-001 Aquanaut Luce haute joaillerie combines some of the most complex gemsetting techniques (snow setting, invisible setting), while the Ref. 5072R-001 Aquanaut Luce haute joaillerie features a bezel decorated with baguette diamonds and a lacquered and engraved mother-of-pearl dial showing an ingenious checkerboard effect. 

For the first Aquanaut Luce with chronograph, Patek Philippe chose a totally new path that plays with gems of different colors. This gemsetting format was already used in the feminine models such as the (2016) Haute Joaillerie Minute Repeater “Symphony of the Four Seasons”: its dial in diamond pavé was sprinkled with color sapphires and in the “Diablotine” haute joaillerie model inspired by the art deco style (launched on the occasion of the Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition in New York 2017). Its livery consists of 2059 gems of various colors. 

For the new Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” chronograph, Patek Philippe chose a true rainbow of colors. The octagonal bezel is adorned with two rows of baguette-cut gems. The inner row consists of 40 flawless rare white Top Wesselton diamonds (2.05 ct). The outer one, slightly angled, sports 40 sapphires in the colors of the rainbow (2.31 ct). Each of them was hand-picked to assure the perfect transition from one nuance color to the next. For this two-row arrangement, Patek Philippe selected the elaborate “invisible setting” technique in which the gems are horizontally notched on the lower facet. They can then be set on “metal rails” that are invisible from the outside. 

The medley of colors continues on the mother-of-pearl dial engraved with the typical Aquanaut motif. The twelve applied hour markers in rose gold are baguette sapphires (0.31 ct) with nuance colors coordinated with those on the dial. Luminous baton hands in rose gold make the hours and minutes quickly and easily legible. 

The case has a diameter of 39.9 mm. The two chronograph pushers are manually polished and satin-finished by the manufacturer’s artisans. In full compliance with the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal, the caliber CH 28-520 movement is also elaborately finished. It can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back.