Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso One Precious Flowers Collection Expands with Three Vibrant Tropical Art Deco Designs

With its distinctive swiveling, rectangular case, the Reverso stands out as an icon in the world of watchmaking, offering the flexibility to be worn with either of its two sides facing outward. On the monoface models, the blank pink gold 750/1000 (18 carats) case-back serves as a natural canvas for artistic expression, beckoning the skilled artisans of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Métiers Rares™ atelier to showcase their mastery in decorative crafts and jewelry techniques.

In 2021, the Maison introduced the dazzling Reverso One ‘Precious Flowers’ series, blending the traditions of fine watchmaking, artistic craftsmanship, and High Jewelry. Fast forward to 2024, La Grande Maison enhances the collection with three new models in pink gold, injecting a fresh infusion of color, sophistication, and allure. Presented in a limited edition of 10 pieces each, these exquisite timepieces harmonize the artistic techniques of enameling, gold-leaf paillonnage, and gem-setting.

Taking inspiration from the design of the Reverso, conceived in 1931 during the peak of the Art Deco era, the three new creations pay homage to the vibrant essence of Tropical Art Deco. Flourishing during the 1930s, this style is characterized by the sleek lines of Streamline Modern architecture juxtaposed against lush foliage and brilliantly hued flowers. Examples of this original aesthetic abound in cities spanning from Singapore to Cuba to Mumbai and, notably, Miami.

Within the domain of the Reverso One, its dial design emanates a refined sense of elegance, serving as a striking counterpoint to the vibrant and intricate adornments gracing its cases. Against a backdrop of white mother-of-pearl, golden brackets elegantly trace the four corners of the dial, creating a framework for the numerals fashioned in the distinct Reverso One font. Delicate diamonds, meticulously set, embellish the gadroons and lugs, while a singular reverse-set diamond adds a touch of opulence to the winding crown.

The latest designs serve as a showcase for the boundless artistry and diverse skills of the Métiers Rares™ atelier, where numerous artisans collaborate in a meticulously orchestrated process spanning weeks and months. Floral motifs gracefully envelop the case sides, seamlessly transitioning from back to bezel, introducing curves and angles that pose a significant challenge to the artisans’ craftsmanship.

Among the array of techniques employed, champlevé, an ancient form of decorative enameling, takes center stage. This method involves intricately hollowing out sections of the metal surface to delineate the desired motif. Subsequently, the enameler meticulously paints the intricate details and tonal nuances onto the remaining wells and troughs using enamel, layer by layer, utilizing varying combinations of transparent and opaque enamels to achieve the desired visual effect. The painstaking research into the colors, a process fraught with trial and error due to the reactions of enamel pigments at high temperatures, consumed over 50 hours before the commencement of the actual work.

The new ‘Precious Flowers’ designs exemplify a heightened level of enameling craftsmanship through the fusion with paillonnage. Tiny fragments of 24-carat gold leaf are meticulously shaped to match the precise contours of the intended pattern. Following the application of a clear layer of fondant enamel, the enameler meticulously positions these delicate gold pieces, molding them to seamlessly fit the designated space. Only after this meticulous preparation can the process of working with colored enamel commence.

The intricate cases undergo a series of 10 or more firings, each layer contributing to the richness and depth of color. Grand Feu enameling demands years of expertise and technical prowess, as its outcomes remain inherently unpredictable: exposure to temperatures reaching up to 800 degrees Celsius alters the chemical composition of certain pigments, and only through extensive experience can an enameler anticipate the final hues. While each firing enhances the beauty of the piece, it also escalates the risk, as the enamel may develop bubbles or cracks, burn, shrink, or cause the metal base to warp.

In designs featuring diamond-set backgrounds, the gem-setting phase commences only after the completion of the enameling, further amplifying the delicacy and intricacy of the process. Indeed, the marriage of enameling and gem-setting becomes a nuanced interplay between artisans: while firing solidifies the gold, the gem-setter necessitates malleable metal, thus presenting a delicate balancing act.

Throughout the enameling and gem-setting processes, even the slightest error could nullify countless hours of painstaking work. These are crafts that demand unwavering patience and precision, underscoring their allure and esteemed value.

The allure of tropical flowers is celebrated through three new models, each encapsulating the beauty of nature in its own unique way.

One of these models, Birds of Paradise, symbolizes freedom and joy in the language of flowers, capturing the vibrant coloring and distinct geometric shape of the eponymous flower. A departure from traditional techniques, this rendition employs a fresh approach to Grand Feu champlevé enameling. Beginning with the meticulous hollowing of the flower’s outline from the flat gold surface of the case-back, artisans then meticulously fashion tiny pieces of 24-carat gold leaf to precisely fit certain sections of the design. This underlying gold leaf lends both texture and exceptional brilliance to the orange and golden tones. Subsequently, the enameler embarks on the delicate task of applying 19 different colors of enamel pigment, skillfully painting to create nuanced tones and a sense of depth.

The process entails the application of as many as nine layers of enamel, demanding a total of 60 hours of painstaking work. The vivid hues of the flowers and leaves are complemented by the shimmer of snow-set diamonds adorning the background. A technique fraught with challenge, snow-setting involves stones of varying sizes, requiring the setter to work with precision akin to “freehand,” ensuring every millimeter of the metal surface is adorned to create a seamless expanse of sparkle. The Birds of Paradise timepiece boasts approximately 331 diamonds, totaling 1.64 carats, a testament to 65 hours of meticulous gem-setting. It is elegantly secured to the wrist with a strap crafted from shiny green alligator leather, custom-dyed to perfectly harmonize with the green leaves. In sum, the Reverso One ‘Precious Flowers’ Birds of Paradise model represents a labor of love totaling 125 hours of Métiers Rares™ craftsmanship.

The elegance of the Hibiscus Enamel model showcases the essence of the tropical flower, a symbol of beauty and wisdom, presented in hues reminiscent of a sun-kissed lagoon. Marking a first for a Métiers Rares™ Reverso One, the entire background is adorned with Grand Feu enamel, enveloping the convex case-sides to elegantly frame the dial. Intricately rendered flowers and foliage, executed in Grand Feu champlevé enamel, reveal nuanced details brought to life with 12 enamel colors, meticulously applied in nine layers. Employing the intricate craft of paillonnage, golden stamens gleam with tiny fragments of 24-carat gold leaf nestled beneath the enamel.

The captivating tones of blue and green enamel are further accentuated by the brilliance of diamond-set gadroons and lugs, totaling approximately 157 diamonds weighing 1.25 carats. The combined 50 hours dedicated to enameling and 22 hours to gem-setting reflect a total of 72 hours devoted to decorative craftsmanship. Completing the ensemble, the shiny blue alligator leather strap is custom-dyed to flawlessly complement the floral hues, adding a touch of refinement to the composition.

Hibiscus Diamonds emerges as a testament to the fusion of enameling, paillonnage, and diamond-setting, presenting a radiant interpretation of the exotic hibiscus flower. The culmination of 12 meticulous trials to attain the desired shades and subtle gradients, the blue blossoms are crafted in Grand Feu champlevé enamel, demanding 30 hours of dedicated craftsmanship. The stamens, delicately accented with 24-carat gold leaf beneath the enamel, evoke a sense of opulence. Similar to the Birds of Paradise timepiece, a backdrop of snow-set diamonds provides a striking contrast against the vibrantly colored flowers and leaves. Enhanced further by the grain-set diamonds adorning the gadroons and lugs, totaling approximately 523 diamonds weighing 2.02 carats, the gem-setting alone represents 120 hours of meticulous labor. In total, the creation of the Reverso One ‘Precious Flowers’ Hibiscus Diamonds necessitates 150 hours of Métiers RaresTM craftsmanship.

Crafted by the hands of exceptionally talented artisans, these pieces are truly precious jewels deserving of admiration. Naturally, they are paired with fine mechanisms, a testament to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mastery of technical watchmaking. Equipped with the hand-wound Calibre 846, the new Reverso One ‘Precious Flowers’ timepieces marry exquisite aesthetics with precision engineering.

Produced in limited editions of just 10 pieces for each design, every timepiece is uniquely nuanced. The fine detailing and nuanced color palettes are the result of each artisan’s individual gestures, expressing their passion, personality, and remarkable skill.