A Study in Craftsmanship: Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Métiers Rares Enameling and Gem-Setting Techniques

Since its creation in 1931, the Reverso has been a prime example of Art Deco design, remaining modern even decades later. Originally intended for the polo field, the design quickly became popular among women, consistent with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s tradition of creating technically sophisticated timepieces for both genders. The Reverso has continued to evolve, remaining true to itself through changing social norms and tastes, and now, for 2023, Jaeger-LeCoultre is releasing a new feminine version of the watch. The Reverso One Precious Colours features a richly decorated case that pays tribute to the Art Deco style and comes in two striking color options.

Art Deco emerged in the mid-1920s as a result of the tremendous social and cultural changes that followed the First World War. It was characterized by an exuberant and streamlined elegance that emphasized clean, strong lines and was reflective of the new sense of freedom and hedonism in society. Art Deco’s surface decoration utilized parallel lines and rectilinear motifs, forming chevrons and zigzags that were amplified by blocks of color and gleaming metal accents, resulting in a captivating visual dynamism that endures to this day.

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s in-house Métiers Rares® atelier has translated this design language into the Reverso One Precious Colours, creating a dazzling pattern that wraps seamlessly around the case sides to frame the dial. With its white mother-of-pearl dial contrasting with the vivid colors of its enameled frame and the sparkle of the diamond-set gadroons and lugs, the Reverso One Precious Colours has a rich and elegant presence. The dial features narrow gold brackets in each corner, applied numerals, and Dauphine hands, all signatures of Reverso One jewelry models. The watch is secured to the wrist with a shiny alligator strap that matches the case decoration.

When the case is turned over, the Reverso One Precious Colours transforms into a piece of High Jewelry. The pattern is executed in miniature-painted grand feu enamel with diamond-set accents, creating an optical illusion of depth and movement. The watch is available in two color options: shades of blue with black on a pink gold background or different tones of green on a white gold background.

The process of creating the Reverso One Precious Colours watch is exacting and requires absolute mastery of each technique, as well as impeccable coordination of different crafts. The enameling process is the first step, which involves sealing the base metal of white or pink gold with a fondant or transparent enamel and firing it. The enameller then applies layers of opaque white enamel to create a pristine surface for the multi-colored design. Next, the lines defining the geometric design are hand-drawn with great precision across the flat surface of the watch case, continuing seamlessly around the sides. Once the drawing is complete, the enameller hand-paints the entire surface to create blocks of different colors, working layer by layer and firing after each application until satisfied with the depth and intensity of each color. After firing the colors, more layers of transparent fondant are applied, known as the Geneva technique, which preserves the colors and enhances the sense of depth. The surface is then hand-polished to achieve a shiny, glazed appearance with the perfect smooth finish of a sheet of glass.

Enameling the convex case sides of the Reverso One Precious Colours at the same time as the flat case back is particularly challenging, as the two areas require a different consistency of enamel for better adherence during the firing. The enameller blends different metal oxide pigments together to achieve the desired variation of blue or green. However, firing at 800 degrees Centigrade changes some pigments, making the outcome unpredictable. A Reverso One Precious Colours case requires up to 15 firings and multiple phases of drying at 200 degrees, which only comes with years of experience.

After enameling, the gem-setter takes over and must work with absolute precision to ensure that the diamonds are perfectly set. Using the grain-setting technique, tiny claws of gold are raised from the flat metal surface to hold each stone in place, without disturbing the finished enamel or encroaching on the perfectly straight lines that define the colored fields and separate them from the gem-set ones. The diamonds require 45 hours of meticulous work, in addition to the preceding 80 hours of enameling work.

Concealed within the case is the hand-wound Calibre 846, developed and produced entirely within the Manufacture, shaped to follow the contours of the rectangular case.

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mastery of decorative crafts and fine jewelry techniques is evident in the Reverso One Precious Colours watch. By fusing functionality, aesthetics, and fine watchmaking, this boldly feminine interpretation of the Reverso is a jewel to be worn, as well as a watch to tell the time. Having its own decorative crafts atelier at the Manufacture, gathering multiple skills together under one roof, enables the artisans to work closely together, exchanging ideas and sharing each other’s creative energy.