Tokyo’s Hidden Gems: A Foodie’s Journey Through Retro Backstreets

In Tokyo, amidst the towering skyscrapers that mark its relentless progress, lies another facet of the city, steeped in history and the essence of daily life and culture. Joining this exploration leads to the discovery of the renowned local food delights nestled within Tokyo’s retro neighborhoods, known as shitamachi. Here, one can embark on a culinary adventure, tasting and comparing various treats while indulging in a leisurely stroll, each neighborhood offering its unique flavor.

On the banks of the Edogawa River, separating Tokyo from Chiba Prefecture, Shibamata flourished around the ancient Shibamata Taishakuten temple, dating back four centuries. Recognized as a Nationally Important Cultural Landscape, Shibamata’s charming townscape, including its 200-meter cobblestone street leading to the temple, retains the essence of the Meiji and Taisho eras. Notably, Shibamata gained fame as the backdrop for Japan’s beloved film series, “Otoko wa Tsurai yo” (English title: “It’s Tough Being a Man”). The area’s specialty, “kusa dango” (mugwort-flavored rice dumplings), evokes nostalgia with its refreshing mugwort flavor complemented by sweet red bean paste. Visitors can also savor the tranquility of Yamamoto-tei, a century-old mansion and garden blending traditional Japanese and Western architecture, often lauded for its sublime landscape.

Just a short distance from Ikebukuro Station lies Sugamo, affectionately dubbed “Grandma’s Harajuku,” boasting a relaxed ambiance reminiscent of bygone eras. Central to Sugamo’s allure is Jizo-dori Shopping Street, renowned for Togenuki Jizoson Koganji Temple, believed to possess healing powers. This locale, bustling with approximately 200 stores, offers various delights, including the renowned shio daifuku, a delectable confection combining chewy dough with subtly sweet bean paste and a hint of saltiness.

Sugamo Jizou-dori Shopping Street: https://sugamo.or.jp/en/

Togoshi, intersected by three train lines, exudes old-school charm emanating from its bustling shopping district. The iconic 1.3-kilometer Togoshi Ginza Shotengai houses around 400 stores catering to daily needs, reflecting the vibrant daily life of the local community. Notably, this historic district birthed the naming convention “____ Ginza,” now synonymous with Japanese shopping streets. Visitors can indulge in the area’s famed croquettes, ranging from traditional potato and minced meat to innovative creations like oden and gyoza croquettes.

Togoshi-ginza Shopping Street official website: https://www.togoshiginza.jp/

Amidst the numerous small factories in Ota City lies Kamata, boasting Tokyo’s largest concentration of shopping streets around Kamata Station. Accessible from Shinagawa and Tokyo, Kamata attracts many evening visitors and travelers, drawn by its proximity to Haneda Airport. Notably, Kamata is renowned as the birthplace of hanetsuki gyoza, featuring crispy “feathers” encasing chewy dumpling skin, a culinary sensation found in its fiercely competitive restaurant scene. Additionally, Kamata offers natural hot springs renowned for their skin-enhancing properties, alongside the Ota City Tourist Information Center, providing dining and sightseeing recommendations and complimentary kimono experiences.