Riccardo Tisci’s first womenswear presentation for Burberry sets out a bold interpretation of modern femininity; shedding archetypes and readdressing preconceptions. At its core, the collection carries a sense of unflinching pride and conviction. With a sense of fluidity, looks reinvent tradition, twist classicism and encourage freedom of expression.
Set within the home of the brand, at Burberry’s flagship Regent Street store in London, an awe-inspiring incarnation of visionary British artist Shygirl introduces the presentation with an original spoken-word piece. The collection itself reflects Burberry’s distinctive character and attitude, reinvigorating hallmarks with a fresh perspective for the modern woman of today. This energy is encapsulated in a dynamic electronic soundtrack, rallying the models as they move confidently through the space.
‘Throughout my life, my mother has been this incredible force of nature. As a single parent, she raised me and my eight sisters with unfaltering purpose and pride. So, naturally, I have always been drawn to strong women and, in turn, they have also given me the confidence to express my own femininity. They are not afraid to challenge expectations and I have always been in such awe of their determination. They are warriors.
I wanted this collection to feel truly emblematic of the power of feminine energy: a modern armour that captures its characteristic fierce aura. There’s an underlying attitude to the collection that’s very British; of being unique, eccentric and totally authentic in how you express yourself. This presentation is a love letter to women and a celebration of their incomparable strength,’ commented Riccardo Tisci, Burberry Chief Creative Officer
Continuing to be inspired by the themes laid out at the Burberry Autumn/Winter 2021 menswear presentation, the collection pays homage to the indomitable force of Mother Nature and the widespread British craft and outdoor movements of the early 20th Century. With fluttering capes and references to flags, the collection nods to these groups who daringly ventured into nature, breaking with convention in their journey towards building a better future. This sense of optimism is palpable throughout the collection with showers of unexpected brightness – the rainbow shining through the rain.
Burberry has always empowered people to push boundaries and continues to challenge tradition today. For Autumn/Winter 2021, the fashion house embarks on the next stage of its exploration of modern femininity and masculinity with Riccardo Tisci re-writing the narrative, underscoring his collections with a sense of boldness and opportunity.
THE COLLECTION
A return to the animal kingdom, a Burberry house code. Trompe l’oeil prints and tactile faux furs play on the natural and the fashioned. The trench coat in bonded faux fur and leather, photographic fox print wool, and geometric intarsia. Reconstructed duffle coats in faux mink and curly shearling. Unexpected adornment on hoods, and exaggerated pelt fringing. Faux fur embroidered into the caped silhouette of a dress, and the paneling of tailored shorts. Evoking a sense of freedom, fluttering cape-sleeve dresses in color block and animal print, and fluid unlined outerwear – as if moving in the wind. Flag intarsias on silk satin and tulle skirts, and reconstructed silhouettes with geometric panels and prints. Bold and bright. Re-inventing tradition, British tailoring classics are renewed with fresh purpose and confidence – a modern armour. A sharp-shouldered boxy blazer; tapered trousers with cut-out cuffs; and fringed and paneled longline shorts. The Burberry cape finds new expression, silhouetting the shoulders in magnified check cashmere, and spliced with a tailored jacket. A gleaming gold lamé trench coat with eyelet fringing, and draped silhouettes illuminated with hundreds of lightcatching paillettes – evoking the color and patina of the sun; the strength of feminine energy.
BAGS
A sense of fluidity inspires the new Flag bag, a soft tote with metallic embroidered fringing – presented in paillette adorned silk, and smooth lambskin annotated with initials. The Olympia collection evolves with fresh iterations, its athletic aura redefined with a new femininity – an Olympia scarf tote and clutch. Supple silhouettes sculpted for movement. The supersized messenger bag, introduced in the Autumn/Winter 2021 menswear presentation, returns in faux fur and shearling, inspired by the animal kingdom.
SHOES
Second-skin sock boots in stretch tulle, created for self expression with a spectrum of sculptural heels – in bright multicolor, Vintage check, a flocked Monogram, and with heart motifs. Soles are playfully moulded to resemble deer hooves.
ACCESSORIES
New wraparound eyewear – evolved from a sports-influenced frame – in injected nylon with a graphic gold-plated brow bar. Bells, bolts and resin pearls punctuate rings and earrings. A series of bold headwear silhouettes (or warrior-inspired headwear) in faux fur, lambskin and paillette-embellished satin.
KEY PRINTS
Trompe l’oeil mink, shearling and fox fur prints, and elemental artworks in geometric color block with stars.
KEY COLORS
A rich and earthy palette – green, soft fawn, camel, beige, copper, pecan brown, black, and saffron. Bright inflections in a rainbow of red, gold, orange, pink and tulip yellow.
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